Now is the time to plan ahead for winter blooms. The most obvious candidate is the glorious amaryllis. What makes more of a statement than a huge colorful bloom held aloft by a long thick stem and surrounded by lush strap-like green leaves? Now is a good time to start them.

If you kept some from last year, they should be resting, dry and leafless in a cool, dark place. I bring mine in rather late, if I remember to bring them in at all. It’s great to have the satisfaction of keeping an amaryllis alive from year to year. But realistically, unless you are growing some truly unusual variety, it is just too easy to pick up a new one each season.

I do both, the ones from last year will flower in late winter, usually around Valentine’s Day; the new ones will bloom just before or at Christmas. Many bulbs come with pots and soil. If yours doesn’t, get a pot that has great drainage and add a soil that also drains quickly. While potting soil is quite good, I’ve also seen bulbs grown in orchid bark or even clear vases with glass pebbles.

The container should be just larger than the circumference of the bulb; leave a half-inch to an inch of soil around the bulb. Plant it so that the shoulders of the bulb, the upper third, are above the soil. Water thoroughly when you plant it and wait. Do not rewater until you see the green of the new leaves emerging from the bulb. Keep the now-growing bulb in a warm (60 to 80 degrees) area with bright light. Water when the upper inch of soil is dry and rotate the plant to promote straight growth. Stake the plant if necessary but avoid puncturing the bulb.

After enjoying the beautiful blooms, decide if you want to keep it or let it go. Throw it out — guilt free if you feel like it. If you want to keep the amaryllis, cut back the flower stalks, move the plant to a dimmer area and continue to water as needed. Fertilize it once a month.

When warmer weather arrives, move the plant outside. Allow it to grow all summer, enjoying a sunny, warm spot. Then bring it back in after the leaves are blackened by frost or in early autumn. Do not allow the bulb to freeze. Give it a rest, low, to no light, cool temperatures (around 55 degrees) and no watering for about eight weeks and then start the cycle again.

Orchids for winter

Orchids make great winter flowers. They are now almost everywhere in grocery stores, big box stores, even the local drugstore. While these are not the high-priced, cream-of-the-crop plants that collectors enjoy or the fantastic beauties in mail and online catalogs, they are quite nice.

The appeal of the orchid is not only its exotic, tropical appearance but also the longevity of its blooms. When I mention the orchid as a winter indoor treat, many people say that they don’t have the money, time or conditions to keep one alive.

First, most of the orchids available in the general marketplace are phalenopsis or moth orchids. Second, these are usually not the best plants. Packed for the market, often forced into bloom and subject to the whims of chance concerning care at their point-of-sale. However, knowing all this, I still will buy an orchid that appeals to me in one of these non-nursery establishments. Why? Because if you get a plant soon after it is unpacked, it should be reasonably healthy. It often offers several months of blooms for the price of a decent large floral bouquet, and there is always the challenge of keeping it alive with the knowledge that if you fail, it can be easily and cheaply replaced.

For something really special, I go to a nursery that specializes in orchid or at least one that has a good reputation for indoor tropical plants. For me, the special ones have been the smaller plants that I can put in a glass terrarium and fuss over.

I have two problems growing larger orchids: my notorious habit of forgetting to water, and my very playful cat, Emma, who doesn’t always look where she’s landing when in hot pursuit of whatever she’s chasing. However, if Emma doesn’t knock them over, moth orchids do well on the same windowsill as my African violets. Try an orchid this winter and maybe you’ll find a new hobby — there are thousands of beautiful, exotic orchids to try once you get the knack of caring for them.

Sue Kittek is a freelance garden columnist, writer, and lecturer. Send questions to Garden Keeper at grdnkpr@gmail.com or mail: Garden Keeper, The Morning Call, P.O. Box 1260, Allentown, PA 18105.

This Week in the Garden

•Planting:

•Finish planting spring-flowering bulbs, garlic and shallots, asparagus and rhubarb.

•Sow seeds that require a cold period for germination, such as poppies.

•Seasonal:

•Remove and store Halloween decorations after the holiday. Clean, check, repair and store decorations, discarding all that are damaged.

•Unpack and check holiday displays. Repair or replace damaged items in preparation for installation in the next few weeks.

•Clear off mushy foliage after frosts. Remove spent annual and vegetable plants from planters and beds. Keep pathways clear of dead plants and leaves.

•If you are purchasing a live potted/burlapped Christmas tree, find an appropriate planting spot, dig it out and store the soil, covered or in a container in the garage.

•Start amaryllis bulbs about 8 to 10 weeks before you want them to bloom. If you have been summering over bulbs outside, bring them in and allow them to go dormant for about a month.

•Dig and store tender bulbs, dahlias, tuberose, or cannas for instance, as the foliage is killed off by cold weather or frosts. Store in a cool, but frost-free area.

•Allow the final flush of flowers to go to seed.

•Lawns:

•Rake, blow or mulch fallen leaves off the lawn. Matted leaves encourage mold problems and can keep water from reaching the soil.

•Keep newly seeded or sodded lawns watered until the ground freezes.

•Chores:

•Mark off beds, new plantings, plants that are late to break dormancy in the spring and delicate plants. Stay off them when decorating or dealing with snow removal.

•Bring in or wrap large statuary to avoid winter damage.

•If you use winter mulch, order or buy it but do not apply it until the ground freezes.

•Consider using a humidifier, humidity trays or misting to increase the humidity around your houseplants.

•Drain and store hoses.

•Check caulking around doors and windows.

•Provide deer, rabbit and groundhog protection for vulnerable plants. Reapply taste or scent deterrents.

•Clean and fill bird feeders.

•Tools, equipment, and supplies:

•Stock plant and pet safe deicing material.

•Check fall/winter equipment and replace or repair as needed.

•Clean, sharpen and oil hand tools.

•Clean and store seed starting containers and other pots as you finish using them for the season.

•Safety:

•Store garden chemicals safely indoors.

•Don’t prune anything that can’t be reached from the ground.

•Check for ticks after every outing.